A plan of Yesnaby

The Yesnaby area of Orkney is the most developed part of the islands with over 60 good route on high quality sandstone. I have described the area starting at the road end car park and working south towards Yesnaby Castle.

Unfortunately the rock at the car park area is in the main very loose and brittle. There are small sections of good rock scattered along this coast but they are few and far between. the routes in this section are the best found so far, the other unfortunately are not worth exploring.

On the north face of the Brough of Bigging to the south of the car park lie The Black Slabs. Access is by abseil and calm seas are required.

Immediately to the south of the Brough of Bigging lies a Peedie Inlet.

South again past the peedie inlet the coast line is a maze of inlets, caves with many short routes and boulder problems on excellent rock. Aside from all this traditional climbing visit the The Quarry. Apart from the two bolted routes here the quarry walls provide very sheltered bouldering and top roping.

Plan of Castle Area.

Immediately south of here lies Qui Ayre Point and the main south facing sea walls. The rock on these crags is excellent and provides great climbing.

Further south the coast has a number of excellent wee geos accessible by abseil, again the routes here are excellent if slightly more adventurous. The climbing in the castle area can be very atmospheric with a good sea running in. As with most of the climbing in the islands care should be taken with tides as big seas can run into these wee geos on seemingly calm days.

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