The Castle Area.

Moss Ghyll.

The above picture is taken from the top of "Skullsplitter." Just out the picture to the right is the False Stack.

Moss Ghyll routes.

Route 0: Bail Out Groove, VS 4b *

Climb the right trending groove to the left of Home Alone.

Route 1: Home Alone, severe

Climb the main corner direct. Some loose rock in the top recess.

Route 2: Watchers Lunge, VS 4b *

Immediatly to the right of the main corner (Home Alone), climb the left facing corner pulling through the roof on excellent jugs to the top.

Route 3: Cut and Thrust, VS 4b *

Two meters to the right, climb the crack until it ends at half height, follow the good holds to a very hollow sounding block above the wee roof. Using the pockets around either side of the block pull through the roof and climb huge jugs to the top.

Route 4: Stolen Property, HVS 5b *

Climb the full crag height crack, initially through a strenuous roof and following easier ground to a steep finish.

Route 5: Thrutch, VS 5a

A couple of meters right, climb the pillar up to the left facing corner, struggle up the corner to the ledge on the left and step to the top. ...

Route 4: Culture Katy, HVS 5a **

Start as for the Moss Ghyll Groove LH start. Climb the groove to the left, pulling through two roofs using the perfect hand crack, follow this through steeper ground to the top.

Route 5: Moss Ghyll Groove, Severe.

Route 6: A nice wee groove at about Hard V. Diff.

Route7: Hayfield Skinhead. HVS 5A. (lefthand finish VS).

The north side of Moss Ghyll.

Route 1: Video Show. ** Severe

Route 2: Big. Diff

Climb the line of least resistance directly up the center of the wall on big jugs, big ledges and big gear.

Route 3: Wriggle and Grin. * HVS 5A

The False Stack.

Route 1: Summer's End. *** E2 5B

Route 2: The Crow's Nest. * VS 4C

Route 3: Three Wise Idiots. * E1 5B

Route 4: Variety Show. ** HVS 5A

The Castle.

Yesnaby Castle routes.

1: Yes, Please. ** E3 6A

2a: South Face Route. ** E1 5B

2b: Direct Variant. E2 5B

2c: Meditation. * E2 5C

3: Landward Arete. ** E2 5B

The Headland Routes.

1: Late Night Special. E1 5B

2: The Master Class. * HVS 5A

3: The Diagonal. E1 5B

4a: Howard's End. VS 4C

4b: Howard's Way. VS 4C

This picture was taken from the top of the loose headland (where the * is in the "the Loose Headland" picture"(below) looking north. The Castle of Yesnaby is out the picture to the left.

Route 1: One Winter's Day. * Hard Severe 4B

Route 2: Blue Baron. * E1 5B

The Loose Headland.

The above picture was taken looking south from the headland just north of the Castle. The red * shows the alternative access to the Castle. There is a large ledge just below the cliff top, anchors here are plentiful and easy to arrange.

Route 1: The Castle Escape. DIFF

Route 2: Last o' the Summer. * VS 4C

Route 3: Sink or Swim. HVS 5A

Pitch 1: 25m 5A: Starting at the left side of the seaward face of the loose Headland, climb the crack and prominient slot to the big ledge. Belay at back of ledge in the niche.

Ptich 2: 10m 4C: Climb the corner and move left to climb a steep left-hand crack to a ledge to a sandy recess just below the top.

The South Face of the Loose Headland.

The Above picture was taken from the headland south of of Yesnaby looking back north towards the castle. (just out the picture left)

Route 1: Mostly Harmless. VS 4A

Route 2: Nemesis. *** E3 5C

Return to the Yesnaby Routes Index.