Westray is the largest and arguably the most scenic of Orkney's Northern isles. Easily accessible by ferry from Kirkwall. Try Orkney Ferries for sailing times. There is a bus service on the island but it is advisable to take your own transport. See the island's own website at Westray. There are two main climbing locations on the island, conveniently at opposite ends of the island.
Weatherness is at the south east tip of the island just over a kilometer from Rapness Ferry terminal. From Rapness walk around the bay past the quarry and continue to follow the coastline south to an isolated concrete hut. From here walk north up the coast line on the other side of the peninsula for 100 meters. You are now standing at the top of several easy angled slabs running east into the sea. Apart from the following routes there is some excellent sea level bouldering (above deep water) on the north face of the headland south of the concrete hut with a very friendly resident seal.
On the first south facing crag lies an adventurous wee route making a rising traverse up the crag. Goody Two Shoes, 30m, severe.
Just to the south of Goody Two Shoes at right angles to the face lies a nice wee wall of boulder/top rope problems. Eleven problems have been climbed on this wall up to about British 6a.
The first north facing buttress has one route so far, following the obvious fault up the middle of the face. The Dark Side E1 5A.
On the Noup Head road at the north west tip of the island, just past the Bis Geos hostel park your car in the wee lay by. From here follow the sign for the west coast walk, down between the fields towards the sea. Once on the coast, walk approximately a kilometer north towards the lighthouse. Here you will find a huge non tidal platform about the size of two football pitches. The red sandstone crags that over look this platform have three routes up them. (Photo to follow)
Walking down these sea level platforms you will come to a very tide dependant traverse to a higher non tidal platform, The following routes climb the crag above this higher platform and are best reached by abseil.
The groove rising above the tidal traverse is "Watery Grave" 20m Severe.
Route 1: The Engineers Wee Plan, E1 5b *
Route 2: Nice One, Angus, VS 4c
Route 3: Ship's Late, HS 4b *
Route 4: One for the Captain, E2 5C **
Route 5: Walking the Plank, E1 5B
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