Stronsay is one of Orkney's northern islands easily accessible by ferry. Try Orkney Ferries for details of sailing schedule. Once on the island it is 6 miles by road from the village to the vat of Kirbuster, so taking your own transport is advised. About a mile from the Vat there is a small car park at the Kirbuster Farm road end (GR 683240). From here follow the sign posted path towards the shore, once on the shore there is a wee foot bridge at the head on a geo. Standing on this bridge facing the sea, to the right of the geo there is a perfect non tidal, 16 foot high, 150 foot long bouldering wall. There are dozens of good problems up to about British 6B, the best of which is a complete traverse of the wall via an unpleasant mono "Ouch" 5C. The pictures below show both ends of this wee wall.
Anyway, back on the Vat path continue towards the Vat for about 200 meters until you come to a much larger geo. Leave the path and walk down the side of the Geo towards the sea to a promontory of rock. Abseil from here into a slightly tidal basin of rock. The north wall holds the highest and best of the routes. (see below) The slab on the west wall can be climbed anywhere at about Moderate.
Route 1: That Hurt's. Severe.
Route 2: Like This. VS 4C.
Route 3: Crack system. V.Diff.
Route 4: Step 2 Arete. HVS 5a.
Starting at the bottom of the O/B corner to the right of the arete. Climb O/B corner for a few meters then traverse left to a wee stance to the right of the roof on the arete, surmount the roof to another better stance. Follow arete more easily to top.
Route 5: Bleach Blond. VS.
Climbs the O/B corner to the right of the above route.
Route 6: Hair Dresser. Severe.
A few meters right climb the full crag height crack line.
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